Have you ever considered how the direction 'rest your fingers on your collarbone' is reserved for women? Or how a wide stance and direct gaze is ostensibly seen as strong and masculine? Since the 1970s, stylised portrayals of men and women have been accused of setting impossibly high standards for beauty, health and happiness, as well as defining what femininity and masculinity look like. It's high time for a rethink.
"Society has always had this obsession with perfection, an obsession that conditions most of us to never feel comfortable in our own skin because we are simply not enough," says music and fashion photographer Tarik Carroll, who, with his EveryMAN Project, aims to reform concepts of male beauty. "I like to call The EveryMAN Project a visual conversation about male aesthetics," Tarik continues. "It's a body positivity project showcasing a spectrum of masculinity, talking about what it means to be a man, and really having an honest conversation about it."
What makes a pose powerful? Five tips for modern-day portraits
Canon Ambassador and portrait and fashion photographer Wanda Martin has also been exploring diversity and challenging gender stereotypes in her work. Since undertaking a post-graduate project, Lovers, that depicted couples of all genders and sexualities in the intimate location of their beds, Wanda has been working with brands and editorial titles including Vogue, Wonderland, i-D and Numéro Russia, capturing portraits that "escape the traditional expectations of beauty". Instead, she focuses on the individualism of her subjects.
"I think a lot of brands recognise that you have a responsibility to show a more diverse idea of beauty," Wanda says. "Maybe some of them are just riding that trend, but at the end of the day, it's okay because this message is still going to reach that wider audience."
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Rethinking definitions
So what exactly is gender posing? "A lot of it is linked to gender roles," explains Tarik. "The standard female poses with a concave back in editorial, pushing her shoulders backwards… if you're a man, it's hands on the hips, elongating the neck and looking up."
The formulaic images of men that Tarik witnessed in the media is what drove him to focus on a more diverse representation of male beauty. "The women's body positivity movement started way ahead of us," he says. "Women are more open to speaking about their emotions and body insecurities. We've been programmed not to speak about these things – to 'man up' and 'suck it up'. Women have been having these conversations for quite some time, and have had plus-sized divisions for over 10 years. We've only started signing plus-size men to model agencies in the past two to three years."
Wanda agrees there are more boundaries to be broken down with men than women. Her aesthetic is inspired by classical paintings – but with a major twist. "If you look at paintings from the past few centuries, even photographs from earlier this century, the female naked body was always the centre of attention," she explains. "It's always women lying on sofas, naked or half naked, looking out at you, the viewer."
Wanda's latest project turns this concept on its head, creating new representations of masculinity, posing men in their homes, lying on sofas in a show of vulnerability. "I'm working with all kinds of men – drag artists, big buff guys, older men," she says.
In a world where clients are increasingly asking for diverse representation, and imperfection and difference is fast becoming the new ideal, Wanda and Tarik share five tips for creating powerful modern-day portraits.
1. Educate yourselves
Real-world perceptions and behaviours of both genders are heavily influenced by visual media, and this is where photographers can come into play. "It's important that you educate yourself. Look at different publications, at conversations we're having right now about gender expressions," advises Tarik. "You can see that brands are starting to be more inclusive, there has been a shift – be mindful of the changes and open to critique."
Wanda says that if you understand and recognise a stereotype, it becomes easier to avoid. She adds, "Whenever I work with women, I don't want to show them overly sexualised. I want to show them strong and proud – attitude is definitely a key thing."
2. Focus on individuality
"Get to know who you're shooting," says Tarik. "Ask questions, what their pronouns are if that's a question that you feel you need to ask. By getting to know your subject, you can identify and show their individualism."
Focusing on "what makes the subject different from others" is also what Wanda advises. "If you have a subject with a missing tooth, let's show it. If you have a beautiful, curvy woman, let's embrace and show that. We should definitely focus on these characteristics as photographers and celebrate diversity."
"At men's model agencies 10 years ago, it was all chiselled jaws and six-packs – that was the beauty standard back then," says Tarik. "Working in fashion, I was told 'we're selling a fantasy' – but you have to ask whose fantasy that is, because last time I checked, everyone fantasised about different things. Everyone deserves to see themselves represented."
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3. Be an observer
"When I ask some subjects to pose for me, I tell them a bit of a story," explains Wanda. "It's like me being a film director, telling my actors how to pose and what sort of role they have to be playing for me. When I work with street casts or with a celebrity, musician or actor, I think my role changes a little and I become more like an observer – to get something from their personality and catch something of their character."
4. Be real
"I can look at a portrait and tell when it's too posed. You can tell it's not honest," says Tarik. Representation is about being real. "It's a collaboration. It's really capturing the subject in their best light and making them feel good; making them feel comfortable so you can capture those in-between moments. Those moments end up being the shots that get selected because they're natural, they're honest. It doesn't matter how contrived companies try to make these concepts: people want to connect with something that feels real."
5. Make your subject comfortable
It may not be new for 2021, but the advice still stands: to capture an authentic picture of the person in front of you, they need to be relaxed. "I always put my music on really loud," says Wanda. "We have to have fun on set! That's one of the most important things."
Tarik, meanwhile, compiles a playlist curated to the subject's taste. But key, he says, is "providing a good environment for all the subjects on set. That's the foundation for getting a good portrait."
Wanda notes that preconceived notions of masculinity are often deeply ingrained, and not everyone is ready at first to explore more diverse depictions. "When I ask older men to pose for me like this, with gentle hands, for example, it's often much more difficult to convince them. They find it very feminine and just don't feel comfortable."
It's worth investing the time and effort required to draw these subjects out of their shells. "The aim is to make diverse, plural, alternative or non-hegemonic expressions of masculinity visible through my female gaze," Wanda concludes.
Wanda Martin's kitbag
The key kit that the pros use to take their photographs
Cameras
Canon EOS R6
The radical EOS R6 features technology that will have you falling in love with photography all over again. See and shoot subjects in completely new ways and add a new dimension to your visual storytelling. "I especially love the high ISO performance and the face-tracking AF," says Wanda.
Canon EOS-1D X Mark III
The ultimate creative toolkit, with superb low-light performance, deep learning AF and 5.5K RAW video. "It was love at first sight," says Wanda.
Canon EOS 5D Mark II
Wanda's backup camera is a predecessor to the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV, a versatile and rugged camera capable of beautiful images in any situation. "I've had it for eight years now, and I've shot most of my photographs on it so far, and we've had lots of adventures together," says Wanda. "Today I usually have it in my kitbag as a backup camera, just in case."
Lenses
Canon RF 24-70mm F2.8L IS USM
An essential lens boasting a fast aperture and image stabilisation plus a Nano USM motor for silent focusing. "I like working fast, and professional zoom RF lenses give you the versatility and dynamism to go from portrait to full length in a heartbeat," says Wanda.
Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
A professional-quality standard zoom that offers outstanding image quality and a fast f/2.8 aperture throughout its zoom range.
Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS II USM
A standard zoom lens that goes just that little bit further, whether you're shooting photography or video. Ideal for when you need to capture exceptional image quality, while travelling light.
Accessories
Canon Speedlite 600EX II-RT
The latest version of the Speedlite Wanda uses gives you control over your lighting, both on and off the camera. "I used to use it a lot, especially when shooting bands or at night in low light," says Wanda. "I have it in my kitbag just in case – it's better to be prepared for any situation."
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